At a certain point in the evening, especially after a couple of beers, I start to think about Grubbs. So it was yesterday when I was out for a drink at the Farm Tavern. All week, I’d been obsessing over the news and it felt delightful to celebrate the demise of Boris Johnson. I like the Farm Tavern for many reasons but lately they’ve started serving Hereford Pale Ale. After a couple of pints of that, the need for a burger began to swell inside me.
Much like Uncle Sam’s, Grubbs is an unfussy fancy burger joint, with a few branches dotted around Brighton. Since moving to Hove, I have visited Grubbs often and the smell of their cooking fills the area. The menu is simple, Grubbs do beef, veggie or chicken burgers served with a wide range of toppings. You can order single, double or triple burgers along with all the usual sides, like fries, onion rings or nuggets.
I told myself yesterday that I was going to have something different but when faced with the menu, I buckled. As is customary, I ordered a double beef burger topped with bacon, lettuce, tomato and cheese. At £6.80, this is great value.
Several factors make the burgers at Grubbs stand out. One is the speed of service, another the friendliness of the staff, a third is the freshness of the salad and a fourth is the toasted buns. Best of all is the flavour of the meat. The burgers are not the thickest going but they’re meaty and have a distinct smokiness that comes from the char grill. I like the bacon burger because there’s added texture. The bacon is properly cooked, not incinerated like at Five Guys but equally, not soggy like at McDonalds. Grubbs is most definitely a fast food joint but occupies a happy space between the two aforementioned burger joints.
Like Five Guys, Grubbs takes the approach that more chips is best and whilst you do have to order them separately, Grubbs are generous with their portions. It is worth saying that the quality of Grubbs chips can be variable but last night, they were perfectly cooked and the smell of them teased me on the walk home.
A final thing to say about Grubbs is that the veggie burgers are decent. Unlike some burger joints, Grubbs is equally good for veggies and meat eaters. I find the beef or the chicken burgers impossible to resist but the Mexican veggie burger is a firm favourite of my wife. The chilli topping that comes with the Mexican burger is homemade and adds heat, as well as flavour.